Shanghai Housing 2): Amazing and Awkward Stuff About Shanghainese Apartments

I've compiled a list of interesting / weird / cool / scary items about Shanghainese apartments I have seen during my housing search just for fun.

Amazing: Despite population density, tall building code allow for more living space than other Asian cities such as Tokyo, Hong Kong and Singapore. Standard 1 bedroom is about 60-85 sqm, 2 bedroom about 100-150 sqm, 3 bedroom 150 sqm up.
Awkward: Balcony and storage rooms are included in the living space calculation if you have them.

Amazing: Shanghainese apartments often come fully furnished. This typically includes beds, sofa, dining, desk, bookcase, etc etc. One of the popular slogans agents use is :"拎包入住“ which literally means, "Bring your suitcase and move right in!"
Awkward: If your dream place is fully decked out and you brought your own furniture. There is no such things as "temp storages" "warehouses" "mini-storage" in Shanghai, the city is packed enough and will not tolerate people storing their trash in expensive space. Solution: Kindly ask your landlord/ lady to move his/her stuff out if they can during negotiation, and be ready to accept a "no", since their ultimate option, should they choose to exercise it, is to move YOU out and another tenant in.

Amazing: New apartments often come with great indoor lighting ( standard during renovations), creative and decorative indoor walls, marble or hardwood floors, nice little touches such as big beds and chrome hardware, balconies.
Awkward: Some nice apartments are "nice" by Chinese Fengshui standards but not necessarily appealing to the foreign eye. Features include dark-wood floors, heavy dark cherry wood furniture, weird-looking wall paper, odd Feng-shui items your landlord will forbid you from removing such as an entire decorative ship made of jade and dead Sea-turtles.

Amazing: Flat-screen TVs are often standard equipment, so are granite counter tops and massage tubs.
Awkward: Be ready for tiny, tiny fridges and microwaves - Shanghainese have Ayis who do their daily grocery shopping at fresh markets and it's often considered "bad health" to eat leftovers.  Washers with NO dryers are a pain in the a** during humid Spring/ Summer days. Drying cloth in-doors with air-con an saving grace as it could double-up as a humidifier. Use softeners liberally so your room smells good and your clothes stay huggable.

Amazing: Vigilant and watchful security staff at condo complexes that will question suspicious guys.
Awkward: If you are a guy without a property key card, you are suspicious. ( I had to pick up my painter / electrician / housing agent / uncle downstairs so many times already)

Amazing: Standard gas-heated hot water system a money-saver. (Less than $60 USD a month electricity bill during winter? Haven't seen that in years)
Awkward: Make sure the water heater in your apartment is big enough to run a very long shower in one go. Multitasking such as showering while doing hot water laundry can overload the system.

Amazing: Aircons that blow hot and cold for all seasons! I mean, really hot and really cold.
Awkward: Aircon dries your throat so use a humidifier. The room can still be somewhat hot and somewhat cold if you have stand-alone aircon units in each room, which is pretty standard in the city. Winters are notorious cold in Shanghai mostly due to lack of centralized heating in homes. Electrical blankets are useful.

Amazing: One-month rent for security deposit for everything included in the place, standard.
Awkward: Three-month rent payment up front, standard. Ouch.


Your Feng-Shui Ambassador: I'm great for your health, hazardous for mine

Housing in Shanghai (1) : Pick Your Spot

Finding housing in Shanghai is an epitome of life in general - your ultimate success depends on a variety of factors: Timing, patience, negotiation, execution, and oh well, a bit, or a lot, of luck.

Where to I start? For anyone who is new to Shanghai, I highly recommend some reading on Shanghainese neighborhoods. I particularly liked this guide offered by Nileguide.com. Shanghai neighborhoods are diverse and interesting, so it is largely a personal preference whether you prefer the old European charm of the former French Concession, the hustle and bustle West-Meets-China Xiujiahui, or the business-centric Jingan or Lujiazui, it is up to you where you call home next.

A few pointers:

• Consider your commute: Shanghai streets can be congested and finding a cab during rush hours (7:30-9:30am) can be a pain in the a**. Subways are convenient and cheap but they are jam-packed during rush hour especially on the popular Line 1 and Line 2. I prefer buses - they are cheap and clean (much better than Beijing buses, OMG) but a lot of times they come at 15-20 min intervals and many lines do not have English signage.

• Consider the services around you: Expats with limited English skills tend to flock in the more popular areas such The French Concession, XiuJiaHui and JingAn's expat apartments and Pudong's LuJiaZui area, with other distinct expat neighborhoods such as GuBei for Japanese and Korean expats. These areas tend to have more familiar chain restaurants, mixture of Western and Asian cuisines, more foreigner friendly bars and nightlife, as well as good internal network of landlords familiar with foreign tenants and domestic help with English skills. 

• Consider Landlords/ Ladies Who Prefer Foreigners: I'm a bit uncomfortable putting this down, but through my search I discovered that many owner state outright that they prefer Expats who rent alone. Two reasons: 1) Housing allowance these people receive often means reliable payment and 2) They are often workaholics with minimalistic lifestyle, causing minimal wear and tear on the house or apartments. The downside is that rent is often  a bit jacked up and expensive (while negotiable); Upside is that such an owner often comes with perks for your new lifestyle. It's not uncommon for your landlord/ lady to pass on a whole lifestyle care-package to you from the previous expat renter: A trip (or multiple) to accompany you to any Chinese office you need to set up your permits and accounts to life (residency, rental, utilities, bank, cable...). An English speaking Ayi, (domestic helper) who has been working reliably with the house,  can help you open, read and pay utilities and bills on-time, and buy groceries accurately with one glance in your fridge. Last but not least, a laundry list of referrals that will guide you to the trustworthy electrician, plumbers and condo property managers, in case you need them. In essence, they are leaving you the best gift a Chinese person can give: Their precious GuanXi. (Relationships in life)

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So where did I end up? With a bit of luck and what I call a series of fateful events - I ended up in Luwan district near the old Yu gardens. With the old Chinese garden nearby and gastronomic array of restos to satisfy my Asian stomach,  and the posh Xintiandi area a metro stop away, it fits me just right in a strange way that it is East-meets-West, old-time romantic with an eye for the new. Courtesy of Nileguide, here is a description of my new neighborhood:

"Luwan is one of the best districts to live in, and a must-see area for any tourist. It is the modern and ancient heart of Shanghai, with some of the premier attractions, dining, hotels and parks.

At the center of Luwan's Old City are the winding alleyways and souvenir shops of Yu Gardens. Yu Gardens is a cleverly restored shopping area that was redesigned to look like an ancient market square. With winding alleys of vendors and the classical upturned roofs and dragon statues, Yu Gardens is a place you'll want to return several times while in Shanghai. You can get great deals on souviners and clothing if you bargain in Yu Gardens, and virtually every taxi driver and hotel employee can direct you here.

Not far away is Xintiandi, a set of old stone gatehouses renovated into a luxury shopping and dining complex. Literally meaning "new Heaven on Earth," Xintiandi buzzes with tourists and upscale Chinese from lunch until far past midnight. Though a bit expensive, it is well worth visiting if you find you need a Starbucks pick-me-up or are in the market for luxury items. At night, the walking area glows with soft light, making it a romantic and addicting place for an evening stroll.

Finally, Huaihai Road cuts through Luwan district, a street famous for shopping and high-class luxury items. Huaihai Road is also home to restaurants, bars and live entertainment in the evenings. You'll find countless expatriates return to this street for their nightly entertainment, and tourists have also proven fond of the nighttime shenanigans."

If this can't lure my friends to visit, I don't know what else could. :)

Even on paper, it's a crazy big place