Tuesday, January 24, 2012

Shanghai Impressions Part One - Language

One thing that makes my transition to Shanghai easier than most is that I have a Shanghainese mother. Having visited the city numerous times before and somewhat understanding the local culture gave me huge relief in settling in, though one can also argue that the "expectations" for my integration into the local culture is much higher. So, what are some of my first impressions of Shanghai? I can certainly think of a few.

Language

Mandarin is the official language in Shanghai for business. However, the Shanghainese dialect is largely favored by the locals as a preferred tongue for interpersonal use. The difference between the two is similar to German to Swedish, and to untrained Mandarin ears, about 15% comprehensible.

You hear Shanghainese in the office, on the metro, in the neighborhood, on the sidewalk... The locals are not at all abashed, if not downright proud, of speaking it in the face of non-locals,  and taking refuge in the fact you won't understand 85% of what they are saying. I've personally encountered it a few times with curious neighbors pointing at me babbling in Shanghainese while my relatives are taking me on a walk, and the two will have a happy quick convo about who I was, why I was here (I understood a few words here and there) without explaining to me anything in Mandarin. Get used to it - to the Shanghainese, all non-locals, Chinese or Foreign, are equal when it comes to being judged, described and explained with or without your acknowledgement. No offense is meant - or at least, you can't be hurt by what you don't know, literally. :)

How important is learning Shanghainese? For foreigners, not very important other than grasping a few common phrases as a sign of respect, and easy way of gaining favors from the locals. For Chinese, most non-locals living in Shanghai have attempted an aural comprehension of the dialect without oral fluency - it's easier to mix in if you can understand the flow of the daily convo and lunch-time small-talks without your peers constantly explaining. Nonetheless, most non-local Chinese do not attempt to actually SPEAK it unless they are spot-on with the accent - while foreigners (by which I mean, if you don't look Chinese) attempting Shanghainese can be interpreted as "ohh...cute", non-local Chinese speaking bad Shanghainese is seen as awkward as a New Yorker speaking funny Texan.

Personally speaking... Well, to my Shanghainese mom, learning Shanghainese is key to my survival as she is convinced 100% as a local that if I didn't speak Shanghainese fast I would be ripped off, alienated, gawked upon, discriminated against, losing her face, and shaming my ancestors, among other bad things, e.g. my veggies at the markets will be twice as high and my rent will be 20% more. (Kidding! I'm kidding!... but paying more than others is living horror to any Shanghainese :) ) Oh well, as I struggle through my breakfast crash-course enforced by mom daily, I am too hoping for a swift and soft landing.

Shanghainese vs. Mandarin: It's like a chicken talking to a duck

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